Ireland Images.8 – Dublin, Galway

If you came this way, Taking the route you would be likely to take From the place you would be likely to come from, If you came this way in May time, you would find the hedges White again, in May, with voluptuary sweetness. It would be the same at the end of the journey…If you came from anywhere, At any time or at any season, It would always be the same: you would have to put off Sense and notion. You are not here to verify, Instruct yourself, or inform curiosity Or carry report. You are here to kneel Where prayer has been valid…And what the dead can tell you, being dead: the communication Of the dead is tongued with fire beyond the language of living. Here, the intersection of the timeless moment Is…Never and always.

1916 Commemoration, Dublin ©2016 Janet Maher

1916 Commemoration, Dublin ©2016 Janet Maher

1916 Commemoration #2, Dublin ©2016 Janet Maher

1916 Commemoration #2, Dublin ©2016 Janet Maher

The Games, Galway ©2016 Janet Maher

The Games, Galway ©2016 Janet Maher

Staircase, Trinity College Long Hall ©2016 Janet Maher

Staircase, Trinity College Long Hall ©2016 Janet Maher

Shakespeare, Trinity College Long Hall ©2016 Janet Maher

Shakespeare, Trinity College Long Hall ©2016 Janet Maher

Detail, Book of Kells, Burren College of Art Facsimile © Janet Maher

Detail, Book of Kells, Burren College of Art Facsimile ©2016  Janet Maher

T. S. Eliot, The Four Quartets, from Little Gidding, 1.

Ireland Images.7 – Still Point

As might be expected, I’ve taken a multitude of photographs. There are several collections going of certain topics. One is of the many instances of houses that look like the classic style we first draw as children, perfect geometry.

The artist’s book that I completed yesterday has a similar structure, though the relationship to these houses was quite accidental. From the side, if the front cover is opened the structure becomes houselike. The internal pages are designed to work as single squares made of two opposing triangles with a series of knots between them. I have called it Still Point, after Eliot. That will also be the title of the show I hope to have with work from this project, much of which needs to be completed after I get home.

GreyHouseSMcprt

Ireland House #1 ©2016 Janet Maher

StillPointsmCprt

Still Point (artist’s book) ©2016 Janet Maher

Ballyvaughan.3 – The Burren

Poulnabrone Portal Tomb ©2016 Janet Maher

Poulnabrone Portal Tomb ©2016 Janet Maher

It is going to be so very strange not to see magnificent rocks enmeshed with grasses and wildflowers around me upon return to the states. Time has done that tricky thing in that I feel as if this present will continue now forever. Having done a good bit of exploring and learning over the past three weeks, it may be possible to write a bit about this very special place.

Expert Gordan D’Arcy explained in a lecture how the phenomenon of the Burren was glacially created millions of years ago when all the earth’s land masses were connected. If we try, we can see how the edges of what became eastern North America had once separated from what became Ireland, which had separated from what became England, floating apart. No wonder the landscape and dry walls of the New England states come to mind so often here, and why so many Irish immigrants chose that area of America in which to place new roots.

Erratic ©2016 Janet Maher

Erratic ©2016 Janet Maher

According to D’Arcy Ireland was originally a jagged habitat with higher hills like China has. Changes from about one and one half million years after the end of the first Ice Age forward have resulted in what exists now. The borders of Ireland extended much further too, having been worn back to the cliffs, additional islands and jaggy shores of today. The Cliffs of Moher, for example, had extended about 100 meters further than they do now. What remains is the Burren limestone and granite that has not been washed and weathered away. Ireland had been covered by a shallow tropical sea, as evidenced by fossil imprints in the rocks. Marks in the stone were also created as other stones were dragged across while glaciers receded. Large granite boulders called erratics occur, sitting as if placed intentionally in various parts of the Burren. A fascinating occurrence appears in rocks from snails having eaten their calcium away. The rocks are peppered with regular-shaped circular crevices and sinuous trails.

Inis Oirr, Aran, Flowers ©2016 Janet Maher

Inis Oirr, Aran, Flowers ©2016 Janet Maher

Within the Burren, extending through Galway, are a vast array of plants that exist where they normally would not. Some came into Ireland with previous glacial activity from the north, leaving arctic seeds that thrive where the stone provides just enough shelter and alkaline surface for them to attach. Thin build-ups of acidic soil blown in from neighboring areas such as Tipperary fill in holes in the stone and provide a different environment that can likewise sustain plants. Neutral mixtures between the two support still other types. There are about 950 species of flora in Ireland, some of them rare. Seven hundred of them are found in the Burren. Thirty–two of the thirty-four species of butterflies are also found here.

Aillwee Cave ©2016 Janet Maher

Aillwee Cave ©2016 Janet Maher

All around is the physical evidence of ancient history, layers upon layers of time co-existing with the present. The 5200-5800 year old Poulnabrone Dolman is a tomb that held a royal dynasty of thirty-three people. The area has about 70 of these upright tombs from about 4,000 years ago when the Burren was heavily populated. Archeology work on the Caherconnell Stone Fort revealed evidence of human occupation from several different time periods, including a burial site from the early 6th/late 7th century. The Caherconnell Archaeological Project continues. The Aillwee Cave has been relatively dry for the last 10,000 years but its origin dates back two million. Created from what was once a river flowing above the floor upon which visitors walk, the current dampness and seepage of rainwater from above has been incrementally forming delicate stalactites over thousands of years.

In a small cave near Ennis a recent exciting discovery of bear remains containing evidence of human butchering has placed the existence of humans in Ireland 2,500 years father back in time than was thought–to at least 10,500 B.C. “That is 8,000 years before the Egyptian pyramids were built and 7,500 years earlier than the first Stonehenge monuments.”

That highly evolved Irish septs following Brehon Laws existed from pre-Christian times throughout the many centuries before England’s turbulent colonization calls for the need to study the Milesian clans in parallel with dynasties of much more publicized areas such as Egypt and Asia. The Meaghers were certainly among the notable septs from their original base as abbots at Monaincha and in their surroundings in the vicinity of Roscrea, Tipperary.

©2016 Janet Maher / Sinéad Ni Mheachair

Ireland Images.4 – The Flaggy Shore

Flaggy Shore, video still ©2016 Janet Maher

Flaggy Shore, video still ©2016 Janet Maher

The Flaggy Shore, Burren, Co. Clare ©2016 Janet Maher

The Flaggy Shore, Burren, Co. Clare ©2016 Janet Maher

We went into the COLD water last night with a group of women who have been meeting here at the same times mornings and nights for four years. One brought a swimsuit for me. The most magic experience of this journey so far. We will go back tonight.

©2016 Janet Maher / Sinéad Ni Mheachair

Ballyvaughan.2

Self Portrait, Kilkee, Co. Clare, Ireland ©2016 Janet Maher

Self Portrait, Kilkee, Co. Clare, Ireland ©2016 Janet Maher

Time present and time past Are both perhaps present in time future And time future contained in time past. If all time is eternally present All time is unredeemable. What might have been is an abstraction Remaining a perpetual possibility Only in a world of speculation…*

This Sunday my father might have become ninety-two, yet instead he has been gone forty-three years. I’ll never forget the series of days during which the rug of my life vanished from under me and everything changed. Somehow it seems fitting that I am in Ireland on his birthday, as I was for the first time on the one year anniversary of my mother’s death. Each deserved a special observance in the place they knew as theirs. As far as I know my father never came to the birth home of his great grandfather. It remains to be seen how I will mark this anniversary. Perhaps I will go to Mass at the Catholic church of Ballyvaughan.

When away from the studio flashbacks occur over and again bringing parallel places and times back to play in my mind, telling me things I would have preferred to have understood decades ago. I imagine my grandfather, James, in the stranger brought into the pub by a possible daughter who saw him walking outside. His eyes lit up when he looked at me a few barstools down as if suddenly recognizing me from long ago (or as if he was younger and I available?), but after returning his smile I politely looked away. It is only in writing this that I realize, my father might have looked like him now. He might have said “Hello!” just then.

At the ceili in Kilfenora the male dancers older than me, with their proper stances, are extremely graceful on their feet. One has been chosen as my partner to teach me to step lightly and swirl with him amid a group ritual that has been performed for centuries the same way. I marvel at a community that comes together once a week to dance—and generously allows tourists in to learn. How could there not be peace and good will in a place that constantly touches each other this way? We learned square-dance versions of these steps in gym class of high school and rolled our eyes. Too cool then to care about things that would eventually matter.

I am grateful for those who did all they could within their limited means to point the way, nonetheless, teaching me to fish, as it were. (The proverb works for all nationalities, even if I’m mixing metaphors!)

At the still point of the turning world. Neither flesh nor fleshless; Neither from nor towards; at the still point, there the dance is. But neither arrest nor movement. And do not call it fixity, Where past and future are gathered. Neither movement towards, Neither ascent nor decline. Except for the point, the still point, There would be no dance, and there is only the dance…*

* T. S. Eliot, Burnt Norton, The Four Quartets, I, II

©2016 Janet Maher / Sinéad Ni Mheachair